Monday, September 14, 2009

Peru 09 Post 9 From Amazon to Andes

On June 14, we had an amazing travel day. We left the camp in the Amazon on the Tambopata at dawn, traveled downriver to Puerto Maldonado by motorized canoe, rode a bus to the P.M. airport which is at about 200 feet above sea level, caught a plane to Cusco, where the airport is over 11,000 feet, took a van to Ollantaytambo, on the way stopping at Lake Huacarpay (about 10,500 feet above sea level), caught a night train to Aguas Caliente and hoofed it over to Gringo Bills for the night. The next morning we were up at 5 to catch the bus up to Machu Picchu, and ultimately birded the canyon and river along the road to the ruins. To recap, canoe, bus, plane, van, train, foot!


Leaving the camp, we picked up several passengers, including this very interesting man.



At the airport we ran into a group of missionaries seeing off one of the local members who was leaving for a mission in the states. We talked to young people from all over the US as well as Peru.


On our way over the mountains, we began to notice a distinct difference in dress and architecture.


Our base of operation at Machu Picchu was the little town of Aguas Caliente, at the end of the train line. The place we stayed was called Gringo Bill's. It was just off the town square which was really full of locals, backpacker's, and trekker's from all over the world.


The town sits in the valley almost 4000 lower than Cusco, where we flew in. Up at about 8000 feet is Machu Picchu, one of the most famous of the Incan ruins.


The ruins are beautiful and feel very peaceful. Hard to imagine what the folks that built is were so worried about to locate what was clearly a very important city so high in the mountains.


In the distance in the valley, you can see the town of Aguas Caliente, and the river along which we did most of our birding.



One of the things I loved about the little town of Aguas Caliente were the street performers. Considering you cannot get to this place by road, and everyone has to arrive by train, it was fun to hear this kind of talent there.




Of course, we were primarily there for the birds, so I guess a few of my favorites from the area is in order. There were really two different habitat's. One was high in the mountains, and the other was along the river.

One of my favorite bird families are the Wren's. The Inca Wren is larger than most at about 6 inches, and is really beautiful, but very tough to photograph.


A very fun flycatcher is the Tufted Tit-Tyrant. This guy has a ton of personality. A tiny 4.5 inches, it's song is huge and can be heard from a long way off. While a lot of Tit-Tyrants have a crest of some kind, this guy is really proud of the pompadour!



It was cool to see the 4.5 inch Blue and White Swallow, which we had seen frequently in the Amazon doing well up high at Machu Picchu.


The 8.5 inch Black-Backed Grosbeak was numerous all over the Machu Picchu ruins.


A relative to the Grosbeaks are the Saltators. Here a beautiful young Golden Billed Saltator (about 8 inches) shows off it's distinctive mask.


Also up high was the very colorful Tricolored Brush Finch. (About 7 inches.)


Among the other wildlife seen up high at Machu Picchu included the Spotted Whorl Tail Lizard. Check out the tail, and the interesting red spots on the body.



Along the river in the valley we saw a number of other interesting species. One often heard before seen is the rare Highland Motmot. Usually found along streams, I heard this one when I was alone, and it took me about half an hour to track it down. I heard it's whoop-oop from way down river, and when I finally found the bird it stuck around for quite a while cooperating with taking some pictures.


It shares the distinctive black spot on it's throat with it's cousin the somewhat smaller Blue Crowned Motmot which we had seen in the Amazon basin. With it's beautiful blue double paddle tail, the Highland is about 19 inches.


A surprising little flycatcher seen jumping around on the rocks and flying from trees to river and back up was the Torrent Tyranulet.


At about 4.5 inches long, this guy was dwarfed by the boulders in the river. Very quick, and constantly moving.


A bit larger at about 6 inches is the White Capped Dipper. Related to the dippers of North America, these incredible birds are always found along fast moving water where they forage by diving into the water and prying food off the rocks underwater! Amazingly agile and certainly fearless.


All over the world, Heron's are among the most noticeable and beautiful birds. Along the river here I got these pictures of a Fasciated Tiger-Heron. This one is a juvenile, about 2 feet in length, still showing the camouflage designed to protect it while it learns to get by on it's own.


As will all Heron's, it can look very short and stubby necked when standing still, but when it stretches out, it is much longer!



Finally a South American classic is the Torrent Duck. Always found along fast moving water, this beautiful swimmer makes even class 5 rapids look easy.



The male really stands out with its distinctive white with black striping on the head. Both the male and female have the very spiky tail, which I suspect is used for stability in the fast water.


The female is also really beautiful in her own right with her striking reddish breast and broad tail feathers.



It's getting late. I think I will go do a bit of preening myself!

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